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From limestone archipelagos to tropical
hideaways
Vietnam has around three thousand islands, mostly
clustered in large and small groups. They range from
tiny rocky pinnacles that scarcely break the surface
to large land areas supporting substantial populations.
The Gulf of
Tonkin
The Ha Long Bay archipelago is enormous: well over
a thousand islands stretching from Hai Phong almost
to Vietnam’s border with China and includes
Cat Ba, an important National Park and wildlife reserve
in the extreme west of the Bay. Most of the Bay’s
rocky peaks are composed of limestone ‘karst’,
a distinctive pattern of erosion creating large ‘towers’.
Ha Long Bay is one
of Asia’s most important tourist destinations
attracting well over two million visitors a year.
However, the bulk of the tourist traffic is concentrated
in the central World Heritage Area, leaving the more
remote, but equally attractive, areas more or less
deserted. Haivenu uses traditional wooden boats to
take visitors on private cruises that avoid the crowds.
Off-limits
to visitors
Two archipelagos, Truong Sa (the Spratlys –
about 500km the Cam Ranh coast and the largest archipelago
in the South China Sea) and Hoang Sa (the Paracels
– about 300km from Da Nang) are the subject
of a territorial dispute between Vietnam and China,
and are therefore off-limits to visitors. This is
a pity, for both are richly bio-diverse with an abundance
of coral reefs – more than 600 in the Spratlys
alone. Even more unfortunately, the conflict over
its ownership has blocked conservation measures and
led to serious exploitation and environmental degradation.
Nha Trang
There are just over 70 islands scattered off the coast
in Cam Ranh Bay. They stretch from Nha Trang far into
the South China Sea. A few have small populations,
but most are uninhabited. Organised boat trips concentrate
on four of the islands closest to Nha Trang and, although
very commercialised, they are great fun. However,
if you want to escape the tourists we can arrange
private cruises to take you to wherever you want to
go.
The Con Dao
islands
The Con Dao archipelago’s connection with the
mainland is via Vung Tao, about 190km to the north
of Con Dao, although it’s much closer to the
Mekong Delta. Con Son, its largest island, was once
a much-feared penal colony but is now home to a couple
of thousand people who fish, dive for pearls and grow
fruit. Its unspoilt beaches, clear water and abundant
bio-diversity make it an interesting possibility for
a ‘get away from it all’ holiday. However,
its infrastructure is rudimentary, there is only limited
accommodation, and the helicopter and boat services
that link it to the rest of the world are hardly the
most reliable in Vietnam.
Phu Quoc and
beyond
The ownership of the two archipelagos in the Gulf
of Thailand, currently part of Vietnam, are also contested,
Phu Quoc by Cambodia, and Tho Chu by Cambodia and
Thailand. However, the claims relate to territorial
boundaries in the distant past and are not active
disputes.
Both are south of the
Rach Gia coast in the extreme south of Vietnam. Phu
Quoc, a large island that gives its name to the archipelago,
is about 70km from the mainland, and Tho Chu, a cluster
of smaller islands, is about 130km further into the
Gulf.
Around 60,000 people
live on Phu Quoc. The traditional activities of fishing,
growing cashews and black pepper, and manufacturing
fish sauce are now being supplanted by a nascent tourist
industry. It boasts a small airport, a hydrofoil service
and some basic hotels.
The islands in the
Tho Chu archipelago (200 km off the Rach Gia coast),
can only be reached by a long sea voyage. Although
it may become a practical proposition in the future,
it is too remote and undeveloped to support tourism
at present.
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