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Ancient
buildings and tombs, war
relics, a National Park and good beaches
The Hue, Hoi An, and Da Nang area is the most visited
in Vietnam. With the DMZ, three World Heritage Areas,
a National Park, and several good beaches, there is
plenty to see and do, and it makes a convenient base
from which to explore farther afield.
The War Zone
This area saw most of the major confrontations during
the American War. North of Hue is the Demilitarised
Zone, or DMZ, and Quang Tri Province where much of
the fighting occurred. The border between the communist
North and the US-supported South was the Ben Hai River,
not the ‘17th Parallel’ as is popularly
believed . The area still bears the scars of the massive
bombardments that took place.
The few remains of the many
camps and combat bases, the barren ground pockmarked
with craters, and the tens of thousands of graves
in the National Cemetery, a fraction of the million
North Vietnamese soldiers who died in the conflict,
are solemn reminders of war. Nearby is the Vinh Moc
tunnel complex, less extensive, but more authentic,
than the more famous Cu Chi tunnels near Ho Chi Minh
City.
The Imperial
City
Hue, Vietnam’s ancient Imperial Capital, lies
at the mouth of the Perfume River. It, too, has been
disfigured by warfare, first by French colonists who
sacked and burnt the Imperial Library as a reprisal
for resistance, and then by a massive US barrage during
1968 Tet Offensive that destroyed much of Hue’s
ancient Citadel. Nevertheless, the restoration work,
and Hue’s status as a World Heritage Site, makes
it an important destination for visitors. Hue has
a small airport with regular flights from Hanoi, Ho
Chi Minh City and Nha Trang. At present, the few good
hotels in Hue City are often fully-booked for most
of the peak season. However, several new hotels of
a higher standard are under construction, so four
and five star accommodation should be easier to come
by in 2004
Bach Ma National Park
Forty kilometres south of Hue
is Bach Ma National Park, one of Vietnam’s best-managed
nature reserves. The park encompasses a mountain area
that was once a colonial hill-station. As well as
good nature trails, waterfalls, lush vegetation and
opportunities for trekking, Bach Ma has spectacular
views over the coast.
Lang Co Beach
Twenty-five kilometres further south, Lang Co Beach
is a long stretch of white sand with a pretty village
and an attractive lagoon at the southern end. Halfway
along is recently built resort hotel on the beach,
a short distance from Highway 1. Its proximity to
Hue makes it an alternative to accommodation in the
city itself.
The Hai Van
Pass
About a hundred kilometres
on the other side of the Hai Van Pass, soon to be
replaced by a tunnel, is Da Nang, an important port
and Vietnam’s fourth largest city. It’s
a pleasant place, but without a great deal of interest
apart from its famous Cham Museum, and a Cao Dai temple.
Nearby, on an attractive section of China Beach, is
Vietnam’s premier first class resort hotel,
the only hotel above superior status within reasonable
reach of Hue.
The Marble
Mountains
The Marble Mountains are a popular
spot for Vietnamese visitors, about ten kilometres
from Da Nang. It’s a commercialised site, but
the shrines and pagodas built into the caves in the
limestone hills are interesting if it’s not
too crowded. At its base is Non Nuoc, a stone carving
village with more than a thousand people involved
in making fine art works and Buddha statues from high-grade
limestone, mostly for export worldwide.
The
Ancient Town of Hoi An
On the mouth of the Thu Bon river in the middle of
modern Hoi An, about 35km from Da Nang, is the Ancient
Town of Hoi An. Facing the silted-up river that once
made it a major port, it is now a World Heritage Area
and a popular destination. Its close proximity to
Cua Dai Beach, good hotels and restaurants make it
a pleasant place to spend a few days in the middle
of a full tour of Vietnam. Although it's commercialised,
it's a well managed site and retains it's 'village
atmosphere'. Apart from the ancient streets of wooden
buildings, silk shops,
river trips and a delightful monthly 'return to the
past' evening when traffic and electricity is replaced
by lanterns and traditional costumes, are additional
attractions.
The remarkable
Cham towers of My Son
The My Son Sanctuary, another World Heritage Area,
is around 40km from Da Nang to the south. Now a ruin
resulting from heavy US bombing, the magnificently
ornamented brick towers of My Son were the spiritual,
cultural and artistic heart of the Cham Kingdom. Its
evocative valley setting and the remarkable artisanship
of its construction makes it well worth a visit.
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