Mekong
floating markets,
fruit orchards
and wildlife, and Phu
Quoc beaches
The main routes to the Mekong are by road or water.
Fast boats travel between Ho Chi Minh City and the towns
of Vinh Long, My Tho, Can Tho and Chau Doc: two of the
hotels in the area have their own service for guests.
Most visitors travel by road. The first part of the
journey is a long and tedious escape from the sprawling
suburbs of Viet Nam's largest city, but becomes more
interesting as the road passes My Tho and begins to
cross the delta.
My
Tho is the destination of many of the Mekong tours
from Ho Chi Minh City. It is very ‘touristy’,
so we by-pass it to head for lesser-known, out-of-the-way
places that lack the relative sophistication of the
tourist areas, but make up for it by their greater
authenticity.
Vinh Long and
Can Tho
Vinh Long, about 140km from Ho Chi Minh City, is less
developed than My Tho, and has enough to make a visit
worthwhile. A particular attraction is a riverside
street of cottage enterprises of bewildering variety.
Vinh Long is also the only place on the Delta that
offers homestay facilities. Visitors can stay overnight
in one of the houses belonging to fruit farmers, set
invitingly beside a canal amidst their numerous orchards.
Can
Tho is the ‘capital’ of the Mekong. It
is a vigorous modern city with some good hotels and
restaurants, but not much else. However, it’s
a useful centre for visiting the Cai Rang and Phung
Hiep floating markets, and cruising the labyrinth
of the Mekong’s channels and canals.
Flora and fauna
Haivenu takes visitors to an open-air viewing platform
in the heart of Tam Nong Wetland Reserve just before
dawn to be greeted by the chorus of well over a hundred
different species of birds to be seen in this national
park.
Another visit takes
guests to the Rung Tram 'Forest', which concealed
a secret Viet Cong base during the American War. Today
it is a peaceful natural area with only faint echoes
of the desperate struggles in the swamps and jungles
of the Mekong.
Vietnam's first UNESCO
'biosphere', the Can Gio mangrove forest, is another
interesting place for nature-lovers. A victim of US
defoliation chemicals during the war, a remarkable
rescue operation has restored the area. It combines
well with a visit to the serene cajeput trees of the
U Minh forest.
Although there are
crocodiles in the far reaches of the Mekong River,
dropping in at a crocodile farm is a safer way to
see these massive reptiles rather than encountering
them in the depths of the mangrove swamps.
Soc Trang
In the area
nearer to the Cambodian border, many of the pagodas
are Khmer temples, including the remarkable 'Bat'
pagoda in Soc Trang, another fascinating visit. On
the Cambodian border in Chau Doc, there is a group
of ethnic Cham people who converted to Islam and built
up a sizeable Muslim community. Cao Dai and Taoist
temples, Buddhist pagodas and the occasional Christian
church add to the religious diversity.
These, and many other
attractions, ensure that several days in the Mekong
delta will be a fascinating experience. The winter
months in the South are warm and sunny, making the
Mekong, together with a beach extension amongst the
rolling dunes of Phan Thiet or on the soft white sands
of remote Phu Quoc Island, a good combination for
a memorable holiday.
Phu Quoc Island
Phu Quoc, 45km from the coast of Vietnam, can be reached
by a brief flight from Ho Chi Minh City or a much
longer boat trip from Rach Gai, 250km from Ho Chi
Minh City by road. It is a large, tear shaped island,
about fifty kilometres from top to bottom, part of
an archipelago in the Gulf of Thailand. It has a sizeable
military presence in the north of the island as it
is claimed by Cambodia, only 15km away.
The island has some
of the best beaches in Vietnam, a large forest area,
and good coral around the small islands to the south.
A five star PADI diving centre has recently opened
on the island. On the downside, the tourism infrastructure
is very basic. There is only one tarred road. The
rest are dirt tracks, so travelling around involves
using local ‘xe-om’ (motorbike taxis)
or hiring a motor bike. There are a few hotels, but
they are mostly basic. The most recent, the Saigon
Phu Quoc, is better, but has some way to go to match
its counterparts on Mui Ne beach and elsewhere. Cafes
and restaurants are plentiful, but international dishes
are virtually non-existent.
Nevertheless, its unspoilt
beaches and lack of tourists makes it an excellent
‘get away from it all’ holiday for travellers
who can survive without the creature comforts of international
standard resorts. It is currently being considered
by UNESCO to become a ‘biosphere’ nature
reserve.
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